First day
After spending a week at my sister’s, i am doubting to continue with my plans to do the Camino. We have had a great time together and the French country side is absolutely beautiful.
But I keep on. My sister drives me through some magnificent villages and forests on our way to St Jean Pied de Port, the place where I have decided to start my walk of the French way to Santiago de Compostela.
As we approach the village we see a blond girl in the middle of the road asking for a ride. We stop. She is a Norwegian girl on her way to Burgos. She had been walking for several days in France but today she took the wrong turn and ended up lost for several km. She is exhausted and thankful we gave her a ride. Last year she started in Paris her walk. This time she will complete her trail all the way to Burgos and next year she plans to get all the way to Santiago. We say good-bye as she has all of her hotels planned and reserved.
My sister is very concerned about my safety doing the Camino. I assure her everything will be fine, despite the fact that I don’t know exactly how it will be for me. When I go down to the bathroom, I see a young man screaming with excitement. He has down syndrome. I wonder if his parents are taking him along the way. It kind of makes me feel that maybe the way crossing the Pyrenees is not that bad.
My sister is staying with me that night, but definetely not coming with me. I am now concerned about her, I tell her, as she got lost several times driving me to SJPP. The Albergue opens at 2:00 and by the time we arrived, there are already a line of people waiting. The village is absolutely beautiful with it its medieval wall. No time to meet anyone as we go to Roncesvalles by car to buy a few things my sister wants. It is almost next door, I see, but by foot it takes more than 7 hours.
My sister and I are given two lower bunk beds. By the time we get into them, everybody is in bed. At 10 pm the lights are off and someone next to me comes at that time. He makes so much noise getting ready for bed that I decide to keep awake until he finishes.
Next morning, at 5:00 am everybody is up with their head lights, my sister comes to remind me it is time to get up. I tell her the dinning room opens at 6:30. She comes back and tells me the room is already full. Reluctantly i wake up is 5:30!
As I go in, the volunteer at the dinning room is not happy. He keeps telling us in Spanish that we are not following the rules and this is our first day. He insists that they are open at 6:39, but he keeps procuring for us the food: coffee, butter, jam, cheese, yogurt.
I say good-bye to my sister, I feel I am already missing her. By 7:00 am I am on my way. It is beautiful as we leave SJPP. The stars are still quite visible and the morning clouds, surround the city. We are 209m high but we need to go 1,400 and then the descend.
I wanted to stop in Orisson, about 8 km up fromSJPP but everything is taken , so I have not other choice but to continue to Roncesvalles.
At the Pilgrims Office SJPP they told me that more than 300 pilgrims are starting their walk every day, but I am thinking there are many more.
I am walking by myself greeting people from all over the world as i passed them. I walk for some time with a trio from Halifax, NS, they are not going all the way to Santiago. They will stop in Roncesvalles and then take a taxi back to SJPP and then take a holiday trip in Paris.
Along the way I meet an Argentinian, Cristina, who is traveling with an Irish girl. They will stop in orisson. I passed them quickly.
I see the boy who was screaming last night with excitement and realized that there are 3 boys and one girl with down syndrome in the expedition. A young Spanish couple and a younger boy are escorting them. The ascent begins to be very ardous. I passed them as well.
At km 8 we arrived in Orisson a remarkably beautiful stop with an albergue and a cafeteria. I stop to have a cafe con leche. I meet the girl from Alaska we had breakfast with. She is lovely but she is staying in Orisson camping out. How lucky I could not even find a spot for that. Then I hear someone calling me. It is the Norwegian girl. Stina. She walks with me throughout the most difficult ascent. She is afraid of heights and starts feeling sick. I gave her a gum and she gets immediate relief. We rest at another place in the highlands of the Pyrinees. It is very hard and I am amazed iI can keep pace with her. Then the brutal descend starts, it is a rocky descend and it is steep. I feel my knees shaky. I maneuver my sticks as if I were skying. It is crazy!
Several hours later we are still in descend. I am not sure I can make it. I take a break and then I see the Irish girl who was walking with the Argentinean. We start walking together. I have ran out of water and Stina gives me some. An angel in disguise she is for me. The weather is sunny and hot. I like it despite the fact that it is too hot, but I would be more afraid of rain and slippery rocks. And the views are amazing!
As we arrived in Roncesvalles we find accommodations in the old Monastery. The beds are so close to each other and I am assigned to a Korean man than later exchanges places with his wife. Thank God. I am also next to Peggy and American lady. She is doing the Camino for the second time and yet her bag is almost 30 lbs. she has a make-up bag that it is full and weights almost 5 pounds. She wants to give me everything she is discarding. No thank you, I said. I only brought a lipstick and a small jar of moisturizing cream.
We go out for dinner and i ask for duck in a fruity sauce. Delicious! The wine is fantastic as well. 6 Euros everything included.
The morning is the same as in SJPP. Everybody up at 5:00-5:30. The bathrooms are full. It is crazy. Me and Irish girl, Deidra leave together. Stina has booked private accommodations all the way to Burgos. We are not sure we are going to see her again.
The walk this time is idyllic. Lovely villages that offer cafe con leche and sandwiches. We meet another Irish couple. They are fun and interesting. Jason and Eva, with a complicated spelling in her name. Dei and I continue but at some point we hear that the albergue in Larrasoana is closed. Some people say because it is they discovered bed-bugs, but in reality it is a big party going on for 5 days.
We continue to Zubiri, exhausted. No more beds, we are told. Stina continues 6 km more to her private accommodations. I found out that they will open the gym in Zubiri and offer accommodation for the pilgrims there. No more mattresses but with our sleeping bags we would be fine.
I see the Spanish couple with the down syndrome kids there. I am so glad to see them! They made it!
I am also glad to inform people as they arrive that they could get a spot at the gym instead of walking 10 more kms. They are all very happy! I know the feeling.
Sleeping is not that bad. Somehow the early riser pilgrims don’t bother me so much with their lights. We have breakfast with the Irish couple but we leave them behind. The walk is easy but my kegs are feeling every step. All the pilgrims seem to know each other. I passed a group of Italian mature men and they all cheer me up because I am keeping pace.
We walk along a river, and the walk is shaded by trees. So many rocks along the way. They say that walking on the stones is like walking your life. It is not an easy walk, you have to look your steps and take one step at a time.
I feel a hot spot on both feet, but when I check I see nothing. That is good. Just as I think of this I read a sign that says”the problem is not with blisters but with your fears”
We meet again Stina somewhere. I am so glad to see her, and she is also happy to see us. This stage has many lovely stops where one can have a coffee and chat but I find it extremely hard. She asked us if we saw the previous day the couple who has walking downhill on the stony path without shoes. She took pictures of them! Yes we did see them for a long time going down. I felt sorry for them! What sins they needed to cleanse for. I don’t know!
The Camino invites thoughts and conversation.
We arrived in Pamplona exhausted again. We have reserved rooms in a private hostel and are extremely happy we did that as there is a frenzy among pilgrims to find accommodations.
Pamplona is absolutely beautiful. As we get to our hotel we walked the main street Calle Mayor, full of vending stalls with all kinds of crafts and food. Then at 2:00, everything is closed until 4pm when everything opens again.
Dei and I go for dinner in front of the lovely Ayuntamiento building. We have a fabulous dinner. For me alubias and oxtail stew. Delicious. Flan for dessert and tons of wine and bread. Total bill 9 euros.
I see the Spanish couple with the kids and they stop me to say good-bye. Pamplona is the last spot for them. They work with these kids to make them more assertive and confident about their independence. They assure me these kids did very well. I know they did. I am very proud to have met them.
I also saw a couple I met on this stage. He looked troubled by the walk and was leaning on his wife heavely. When I approached them, i asked if they were okay, yes she said and continue singing to him in a lovely low voice a song in German. I believe he had Parkinson’s.
I started to write my diary of the trip back at the albergue in Pamplona as i had private room and access to the wi-fi.
Today, Sat Sep 6, I wake up early. I feeling great. Perhaps I need to continue. I talked to Dei but she decides to stay. I go and visit the Museum where I discovered the Roman frescos and admired some Goya paintings.
I then leave at 11:30. The walk is hard for more than 12 kilometers with no stops or shade. Ups more than downs. Somehow I missed the first town where I intend to stop so I continue to Zariquiegui where I am now fully fed with a lovely soup, rabbit in a delicious soup, flan and tons of wine and bread. This is a lovely town and I have met now a lovely Brazilian lady and a group of German ladies who will be traveling together tomorrow. Life is good.